hyundaitech,
I don’t know if you can help me with this question but here goes. I’ve
got a 2003 GLS with sunroof. Unfortunately, the map light switches
aren’t illuminated and I’m tired of driving at night and fumbling
around trying to find the map light switches, only to hit one of the
the roof switches by accident and have the roof retract on me. Having
that happen is especially frustrating when it’s raining out. To solve
that problem I want to install two very small 12 volt LED’s into the
sunroof control panel to mark the position of each of the map light
switches. Physically installing them into the panel won’t be a problem.
My problem is trying to figure out where I can tap into the control
panel itself to get a switched 12 volt positive feed for the LED’s. I
bought a spare sunroof control panel to play around with and I’ve fed
12 volts into it and I’ve noted what each of the connections are for.
For obvious reasons, I’d like to try and tap into the power connections
in the sunroof control panel or headliner and avoid running power leads
to junctions elsewhere in the car. I’ve got the Elantra electrical
manual, but after looking at that for a while everything starts getting
blurry. I’d love to be able to power the LED’s on when I turn on the
parking lights or headlights but I guess I’d be happy if I can get
power to the LED’s when I turn the ignition switch on. I really don’t
want to have the power feed be hot all the time for obvious reasons.
One thing that I may be able to tap into is the spare roof lamp harness
that’s up in the headliner. I saw that unused harness when I was
installing the one-touch sunroof control relay some time ago but I know
that room lamp is controlled by the ETACM. Any suggestions that you can
pass along will be greatly appreciated. I don’t suppose Hyundai
redesigned that panel to incorporate lighting for the map light
switches? Thanks for your time.
–
MidnightGray
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Probably the easiest/nearest place to tap in would be the brown/black wire
going to the sunroof relay. This wire has switched power. According to
the schematics, the only wires power wires going to the lamp/sunroof
control assembly either have constant power. The brown/black wire goes
through the relay coil side before getting to the lamp/sunroof control
panel.
If you want to use the tail lamp circuit, the rheostat (dimmer switch) is
a good place to tap in. Wire the positive LED lead to the black wire at
the rheostat. Then wire the negative to the green wire if you’d like the
LED to dim with the rheostat, or simply attach to ground if you want full
LED illumination anytime the tail lamps are on.
The wiring to the roof panel runs up the left front pillar. The trim
should simply snap off. It’s probably not a terribly involved project if
you wanted to actually tap into the dimmer.
There’s a simpler solution; install a tactile indicator of some sort on
each button. It can be something as simple an unobtrusive as one of the
small rubber buttons used on computers, furniture and the like. You can
get them at any hardware store or home center in a variety of shapes,
sizes and colors.
hyundaitech;198888 Wrote:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Probably the easiest/nearest place to tap in would be the brown/black
> wire
> going to the sunroof relay. This wire has switched power. According
> to
> the schematics, the only wires power wires going to the lamp/sunroof
> control assembly either have constant power. The brown/black wire
> goes
> through the relay coil side before getting to the lamp/sunroof control
> panel.
> If you want to use the tail lamp circuit, the rheostat (dimmer switch)
> is
> a good place to tap in. Wire the positive LED lead to the black wire
> at
> the rheostat. Then wire the negative to the green wire if you’d like
> the
> LED to dim with the rheostat, or simply attach to ground if you want
> full
> LED illumination anytime the tail lamps are on.
> The wiring to the roof panel runs up the left front pillar. The trim
> should simply snap off. It’s probably not a terribly involved project
> if
> you wanted to actually tap into the dimmer.
I checked the schematic and you’re absolutely correct. I think that’s
the (very simple) answer that I’ve been looking for. Thank you for
pointing that out. I was so focused on taping into the control panel
lighting circuitry that I forgot all about the relay circuitry. It
looks like pin 2 on connector M96 will do it. No doubt that would work
with the stock relay, but I’ll have to see if that will also work with
the one-touch relay that I installed. I also appreciate the other
suggestion about tapping into the rheostat. It sounds easy enough even
with having to remove the trim panel. Having the LED’s tied into
illumination control would be even sweeter and I may end up going that
route eventually. For now, just getting illuminated indicators overhead
would be a tremendous improvement over total darkness. Thank you!
You did such a great job with that question, I’m wondering if I can
bother you with one more electrical question about the Elantra. I need
to install a dash switch to control my GLS fog lights so I can turn
them on and off as needed. The power and ground connections for the
switch in the cabin will be pretty straightforward, but somehow I need
to get a powered lead (connected to the new switch) from the cabin,
through the firewall, and then into the engine compartment. Just one
wire would do it for me. I’ve looked just about everywhere for a
simple, easy access point or plug, but short of drilling a hole through
the firewall I can’t see a very direct route, although I may have
overlooked an access point somewhere. I was hoping that one of the
harnesses going through the firewall would have an unused lead and I
just could hitch a free ride on that. But from what I can see, it
doesn’t look like Hyundai has any unused leads in the harnesses. In
your vast experience, do you know of or have a fairly simple suggestion
for getting a single wire connection from the cabin and into the engine
compartment by going through the firewall or otherwise on an ’03 GLS? I
don’t mind doing a little work to make it happen as long as it doesn’t
involve tearing the entire dash out or pulling a fender off the car. I
asked my dealer how I could do it, and I was even williing to pay them
to do it, but they didn’t even want to talk about that kind of "voodoo
magic". I’m open to suggestions. Thanks again for the help.
–
MidnightGray
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"Brian Nystrom" <brian.nyst…@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:Puqnh.585$Ke.216@trndny04…
> There’s a simpler solution; install a tactile indicator of some sort on
> each button. It can be something as simple an unobtrusive as one of the
> small rubber buttons used on computers, furniture and the like. You can
> get them at any hardware store or home center in a variety of shapes,
> sizes and colors.
But in the dark you still have to reach and feel around for the tactile
button. With an LED, you go right to it. I too, often fumble for the
switches.
A simple feature I miss is having the dome light come on when I turn the key
off. When I pull into my driveway at night, I turn the car of and I’m
sitting in the dark looking for the papers on the seat, of my hat, etc. In
my Buick, the light comes on as soon as I remove the key and stays on for
some time after I exit. The Buick also cost thousands more and yes, you do
have to drop some little features to keep the cost in line.
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "Brian Nystrom" <brian.nyst…@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:Puqnh.585$Ke.216@trndny04…
>> There’s a simpler solution; install a tactile indicator of some sort on
>> each button. It can be something as simple an unobtrusive as one of the
>> small rubber buttons used on computers, furniture and the like. You can
>> get them at any hardware store or home center in a variety of shapes,
>> sizes and colors.
> But in the dark you still have to reach and feel around for the tactile
> button. With an LED, you go right to it. I too, often fumble for the
> switches.
I guess, but it seems to me to be easier to just learn where the
switches are.
I’ll need to look into this tomorrow. I’m not at work and am on Mac, so I
can’t view the website.
"hyundaitech" <notpub…@not.public.com> wrote in
news:fb366350781c35766fcc33d04532d8d4@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:
> I’ll need to look into this tomorrow. I’m not at work and am on Mac,
> so I can’t view the website.
You use a Mac? Man, you really are a liberal!!! :-P
Eric
Eric G. wrote:
> "hyundaitech" <notpub…@not.public.com> wrote in
> news:fb366350781c35766fcc33d04532d8d4@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:
>>I’ll need to look into this tomorrow. I’m not at work and am on Mac,
>>so I can’t view the website.
> You use a Mac? Man, you really are a liberal!!! :-P
No, Mac users are Independents. Liberals still use terminals off or an
IBM mainframe so they can control what the users do! :-)
Matt
Start by checking to see whether you already have fog lamp wiring in your
car. Are the connectors for the fog lamps themselves present? Do you
have a fog lamp relay in the underhood fuse box? Is there a 15A fog lamp
fuse in the underhood fuse box? Is the green/orange wire for the fog lamp
switch present at pin 12 of the multifunction switch connector?
If all these things are present, all you really need to do is tap into the
wire at the multifunction switch connector for your own switch (or even
replace the multifunction switch with one for fog lamps), find a ground
for the switch, and mount the lamps and connect to the connetors/wires
already in place. Even if the wire at the multifunction switch is the
only thing present, that’s your path from inside the vehicle to outside.
I know it’ll make you dizzy, but comparing the schematic to what’s present
on your car is an excellent place to start. Then it’s a matter of
engineering something simple to work with what’s already there.
hyundaitech;202735 Wrote:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Start by checking to see whether you already have fog lamp wiring in
> your
> car. Are the connectors for the fog lamps themselves present? Do you
> have a fog lamp relay in the underhood fuse box? Is there a 15A fog
> lamp
> fuse in the underhood fuse box? Is the green/orange wire for the fog
> lamp
> switch present at pin 12 of the multifunction switch connector?
> If all these things are present, all you really need to do is tap into
> the
> wire at the multifunction switch connector for your own switch (or
> even
> replace the multifunction switch with one for fog lamps), find a
> ground
> for the switch, and mount the lamps and connect to the connetors/wires
> already in place. Even if the wire at the multifunction switch is the
> only thing present, that’s your path from inside the vehicle to
> outside.
> I know it’ll make you dizzy, but comparing the schematic to what’s
> present
> on your car is an excellent place to start. Then it’s a matter of
> engineering something simple to work with what’s already there.
Unfortunately, there’s no fog light relay or relay socket in the
underhood fuse box and consequently no harness wiring that I can see.
Nada. No fog light connectors either. Yeah, I know, that would have
been too easy. I’ve already checked for that. I’ll have to check and
see if there’s anything at all at the multifunction switch because
you’re right, that would provide access through the firewall. There’s
no relay socket connections in the underhood fuse box so I kind of
doubt there’s any existing harness wiring anywhere. I was just
wondering if in your experience you knew of an easy way to do that or
knew of an available access point through the firewall. Thanks again
for your help.
–
MidnightGray
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